-By Suresh Hinduja
Decor
A burly moustachioed Pathan looking doorman beckons you inside to this mountain-inspired restaurant. Named after the border outpost, Waggah's has faux walls that resemble rocky outcrops and roughhewn stone cladding. Gabbar Singh and Basanti…anytime now! An open kitchen showcases the kebab chefs at work. Ambience is a little dark, some natural light would have made the place cheerful.
FOOD
Vegetarians should not miss the tandoori paneer ke parchey, served as small discs with just a hint of mustard oil. The Sindhi karahi made with fresh stone ground masalas has an array of vegetables in a thickish gravy, served in a clay pot and topped with a ghee tadka of phool makhana/puffed lotus seeds. Not very Sindhi, but it was delicious and went well with a 'Dosti' roti made with dual layers of atta and maida. Delicious murgh Lahori kebabs grilled on flat skewers exhibited the skill of the chef in maintaining the right balance of charring and moistness. Country chicken fans may try the desi dum ka murgh topped with saffron. Other notables include samundari jhinga, Lahori fish tikka and Pindwala bhatti da murgh— tandoori chicken legs, including the thigh. If you are dining alone, opt for the seven course set meal - Dastarkhan e Waggah @ '499, available only for lunch Monday through Thursday. It's a good deal at that price. The signature dessert here is the Afghani khajoor ka halwa, sinful and sweet. A ghazal singer responds to popular requests on weekdays for dinner and this may be an attraction to many aficionados.
SERVICE
Service is prompt and unobtrusive, predictably enough, the staff wears Pathani attire.
PLUS & MINUS
Waggah's has great kebabs and breads including a well-made Bakarkhani. We wish the management could fix the decor to let in some natural light.
Must Try:
Sindhi Karahi vegetables, Tandoori Paneer ke Parchey and Murgh Lahori Kebab.
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