The Final Frontier

Critic´s Review

• Food: 4 / 5
• Service: 3.5 / 5
• Decor: 3.5 / 5

-By Marryam H Reshii

ANOTHER QURESHI CLASSIC...

The best part about Delhi's dining scene is the side of the road segment where you can dine like a king without leaving the comfort of your car. Usually two people can dine for a three-figure sum.

The Final Frontier is a take-off on that concept. It is on the side of a road: opposite the Don Bosco School main gate, and while you can dine in your car, you can also sit in the modest sized patio amidst sheeshasmoking youngsters. What you will get is a set of way-above-average kebabs that are succulent and expertly spiced, as well as real qormas and tawa creations. Not surprisingly, it is the work of the Qureshi brothers, sons of Chef Imtiaz Qureshi. The best part is that it is modestly priced. One sure sign that a restaurant is not out to fleece its customers is the presence of the halfplate. Many of the dishes at The Final Frontier are available by the half-plate.

Don't miss the kakori kebabs (Rs 140 for 2 pieces). The price versus quality, and that too, in a central location of South Delhi is a completely unbeatable combination. The kebabs are perfectly made, with the trademark spices that do not overpower, yet add authenticity to the dish. The kebabs have a paper-thin crust on them and just about hold their shape, but meltin-your-mouth all the same. It is a complete steal at the price.

The galawati kebabs (Rs 140 for two) were one step down, having been made with a trifle too much raw papaya (used to tenderise meat) but at the price, even they’re good, besides being excellent value for money. What is unbeatable is the murghAfghani (Rs 140). Unlike the same dish in other restaurants, (is there no standardisation of our cuisine?) this is fairly similar to tandoori chicken and highly recommended for its sheer succulence. Unlike the complex spicing of the galawati and kakori, murgh Afghani wins with its basic appeal. Ditto for mutton boti kebab (Rs 190 for eight pieces). The mutton is tender and succulent, there’s no discernible chana powder to mar the texture (another favourite ploy of restaurateurs to make the spices adhere to the tikkas, but one that lends a mealy texture).

As for the curries, the murgh qorma is as superior a version as you would expect from a cardcarrying Qureshi: light, flavourful and great value for Rs 390/220 (full/half). The one item we ordered that was out of place was methi keema (Rs 250), a tawa speciality. Full of oil and redolent with the kind of spices that you’d associate with a Punjabi dhaba, it was a curious contrast to the rest of the meal. Whether that is necessarily a negative point would depend on your point of view.

I would not visit The Final Frontier if I was a vegetarian. There are vegetarian dishes on the menu, but let's face it: the Qureshi clan is famous for their meat cookery. I can't wait to try their dum biryanis (Rs 210/200 mutton/chicken). And I now know better than to order warqi parathi (Rs 35), which was as stiff as cardboard, and about as tasty too. Lastly, I will keep place for the delicate sikora firnee (Rs 40).