Spice Goa

Critic´s Review

• Food: 3.5 / 5
• Service: 3 / 5
• Decor: 3 / 5

-By Odette Mascarenhas

If your taste buds are looking out for a workout in the traditional way, there is a place on the Goa-Mumbai highway aptly named Spice Goa. The brainchild of Atul and Aparna Shah, this cosy eatery serves the most awesome seafood with the local ingredients ground to create a tongue-tickling masala. Atul is passionate about food, and the local vendors have given him a nickname 'Dr Fish'. He knows exactly where to procure his seafood even in the monsoons. Atul and Aparna have created a 'niche' for their seafood and thalis. In fact, they serve approx. 150 thalis per day. The thali has a piece of freshly cooked fish, Tisreos (shellfish), Ooman and locally grown vegetables, accompanied with rice and Kishmur, the traditional recipes of Aparna's mother. Most of the flavours that come from their well-appointed kitchen are from Pernem, a district to the north of Goa. Take the preparation of Modoso (ladyfish) marinated in chilli powder, turmeric, tamarind pulp and some Aparna seasoning. She also has some different recipes cooking in her kitchen. Try her Tandoori Fish cooked with gaunti masala. The absence of curd does nothing to detract the moistness of the fish as it emerges from the tandoor. The crabs are live when brought to the table before cooking. The Crab Xacutti is worth mentioning, especially when traditionally the Xacutti masala was found in the cooking pots of the stone masons of Pernem. While Aparna works on the local culinary magic, Atul tries his hand at a few fusion preparations. A fish in green masala, marinated with freshly ground spices and cooked in a banana leaf - quite similar to the Parsi preparation but with a local twist. This 'traditionally yours' local jugalbandhi of Atul and Aparna has created a traditional spiced venture to be visited.