Tea Cafe Kolkata

Critic´s Review

• Food: 2 / 5
• Service: 2.5 / 5
• Decor: 3 / 5

-By Salmoli Mukerji

Every time I hear about a new place in town, it excites me to no end. My lips tingle, taste buds rejoice and belly sighs with new expectations. This time, it is a turn of the century house, in the heart of south Kolkata, heartwarming to see a first. The exteriors exude a quaint, old world European cafe charm, red, green and white signage, soothing blue louvre windows, only thing missing are the lace curtains and beautiful blooms.

DECOR: 3

From an outside of calm sophistication, enter into the three, stark, but cheery dining rooms spread over the ground floor, one leading into another. Polished, concrete floors, walls hang original artworks on sale (stickers on them) and Mario Miranda reproductions on ceramic, on the tables — the space styles itself as a resurgent cafe. The hardwood, polished furniture, is a little too hard, sprightly cushions will add to the comfort and charm. What scores is the fun mix of the old and new - and the appeasing dessert counter in the middle.

FOOD: 2

An ambitious, flamboyant menu awaits us for dinner. We order a tasting menu starting with time-tested Prawn cocktail (240) and Chicken Caesar Salad (140), but later, regretted. Wish we had tried the atypical Curried Chicken, Apple and Celery Salad (140), Potato and Leek Soup (`80) and the Chicken Burger Loaf (235) instead. In the main course, we head straight for the Kerala and Goan taste —purely excited to try out an eclectic combination, another first in the city! We went a little overboard ordering Kerala Fish curry with Kachiya Moru (225), Prawn Ularthiyathu (310), Mutton Pepper fry (290) and Chicken Xacuti (225) to go with Kerala Parota (25) and Appams (30).

PLUS and MINUS

It resulted in mixed feelings. While the prawns, dry roasted with slivers of red onion, chopped garlic, pepper and refreshing curry leaves are cooked to perfection and the Kerala Fish Curry coats my mouth with tangy, spicy and smooth buttermilk sauce, the Goan Xacuti and Mutton Pepper Fry disappoint with their dryness and undercooked consistency. The Parota and Appams are flaky and fluffy alright, but way behind the right temperature. A delightful exception was the display desserts. The Apple Pie (55) was absolutely delicious and the Toffee Profitrolls (50) gave close competition. The beverages section on the menu is long enough for a tea cafe, but teas appear in tea bags. The place has opened just over 10 days, is it too early or the menu too ambitious? I am willing to go back to try their Chicken breast with Mango sauce (250), Vegetable Stew (110) and Egg Roast (75) - as recommended by friends.