Daawat-E-Shiraz

Critic´s Review

• Food: 3 / 5
• Service: 3 / 5
• Decor: 3.5 / 5

-By Salmoli Mukerji

A legendary "food" location transformed into a new specialty restaurant at the three star Tulip Inn Kolkata, offers fresh interpretations of classical Indian flavours. The aromas from the fresh tandoor envelope us as we approach the stretch. The open kitchen sporting shiny kebab skewers and the ultra modern décor at the almost empty restaurant looks unbelievably new... like a gift just unwrapped!
DECOR
The rich, red and gold brocade menu advertises the traditional "Bawarchi khana" from the kitchens of Oudh. There's a small problem with that promise. The beaten gold faux leather furniture, white tables with runners, dark chocolate and gold etched glass backdrop and an over powering canopy of wrought iron filigree lighting instantly runs a flash back of the previously existing tired dining room that buzzed at the same space, day and night, as the busiest Calcutta biryani and chaamp place.
FOOD
As a first time diner, it is a pleasure to find a simple menu prepared with great perseverance, it steered us to a slice of Lucknowi culture. Curries, Tandoori and unusual vegetarian dishes dominate the options. We settle for Paya Shorba (Rs. 150), Mawa Bhara Khumb (Rs. 200), Galouti Kebab served with Ulta paratha (Rs. 300) in the first course. For second, we chose the obvious Oudh Gosht Biryani (Rs. 300), Khusk Aloo (Rs. 175) and Mehr-e-Aftaab (Rs.300), stuffed minced balls in brown sauce, very similar to the Kashmiri Rishta.
PLUS & MINUS
The flavours are great - subtle and not overpowering and the service is efficient and fast, considering the cuisine. The delicate lamb shorba sets the mood - perfect in temperature and a mild dash of lemon makes it a fabulous blend. The char grilled button mushrooms comes with a freshness of cheese, khoya and onion stuffing, delightful for the palate. The real Oudhi jewel, melt in the mouth Galouti, comes with ample spicing and brushed in ghee. A faultless combination with the sweet touch of the Ulta parathas. For grilled meats, you can try the Kebab Tashtari (Rs 475), a day's special kebab platter, which we skipped to try the mains. The Biryani arrives in a generous portion. Though, the authenticity is a question - more "Calcutta" than "Oudh" in its manifestation, with the unique Calcutta tradition of a potato along with the well-cooked pieces of lambs! It is light and tasty in its mildness, without the strong essence. The mince balls with Mawa stuffing are dipped in a rich tomato and onion gravy, but are dry inside. The Khusk Alu fails to impress, no baby potatoes, it comes in a gravy with curry leaves and mustard tempering. We polished off a Malai Kulfi (Rs 125), sans the faluda and a Pista Phirnee (Rs 100) at the end.
Must Try
Gosht Biryani, Galouti kebab, Hariyali Murg tikka