The Table

Critic´s Review

• Food: 4 / 5
• Service: 3.5 / 5
• Decor: 3 / 5

-By Rashmi Uday Singh

(DELEC)TABLEnnTime for applause. I give this younger generation (of owner and chef) top honours for combining chic with casual, sophistication with comfort, their globally inspired food and the ambiance they serve it in. Let's applaud this six-month-old restaurant, simply and unpretentiously named 'The Table', which has opened on South Mumbai's brand new restaurant street. And here's to Shobhaa De, my guest today. For, even as you are reading this she is in Chicago attending the bi-annual BMM Convention and addressing the huge and very successful Maharashtrian community in North America. It's on to Mexico with husband Dilip after that! Ole! Her recent Star Majha Award is a very special honour , since she shared the platform with Anna Hazare. She's midway through writing her new novel and this inspite of her painful 'writer's wrist'. Dr Farhad Taraporevala has advised the prolific writer to rest it. But to ask me to stop writing," she says, "is like asking me to stop breathing!" Shobhaa has eaten here at least half a dozen times and even her foreign friends rate it "world class."nnpalaTABLEnnIt's called Zucchini Spaghetti and it's not spaghetti at all. It's strands of zucchini, slivers of almonds and parmesan. Yet it packs flavour and texture and a sense of revelation without being overcute and fussy. Chicken Wings are intense chicken flavours compressed in cubes with a ginger glaze. Whoa! The delicately wobbly Panacotta does an amazing jugalbandi with the sweet-bitterness of orange rind and the bite of pink pepper corns. By and large, the 26-year-old Californian chef Alex Sanchez's food in 'small plates' and 'large plates' is not about fanciful conceit or adornment but the focus is on the centerpiece ingredient. As Shobhaa says, "He knows his job, doesn't fib about what's fresh, what's not — I appreciate that." He keeps the proportions fine-tuned and flavours sharpened, and uses the perfect techniques to do so. Like the Cheese Goujeres. Perfect proportions of cheese, flour and egg, baked to round, crisp, fluffy puffs of delight for starters. Outstandingly light Garoupa swimming in a broth brimming with Japanese flavours. Polenta Bars in a pool of an intense Porcini Sauce. Sweet Pumpkin buttery, velvety Ravioli. Luscious Chicken Liver Mousse with Vanilla Apple Jelly. All these work their magic. As so do the meaty and moist mini burgers served with homemade tomato ginger jam. And that with the interesting wine-list serving up 'half glasses' is a welcome addition.nnUnpalaTABLEnnBefore writing this review, I ate here seven times (booked the table in a fake name and paid my bill each time). Let me also place on record that it is not wondrous 100 per cent of the time, and it can be patchy: at moments too intent on culinary adventure or too unnecessarily heavy on butter and cream. Salads are served with cream or chevre (roasted red beet, arugula). A lackluster corn salad, a thick-shelled chocolate tart and overladen with fat, spaghetti bolognaise porcini. The service needs to be fine-tuned. Shobhaa's grouses? Noisy mezzanine level, uncomfy community table and the exorbitantly priced wines. And my concern (as always) is will the consistency be retained even after the ex-pat chef has left?nncomforTABLEnnWe love the chic decor... from the black and white striped floor to the comfy mezzanine level. And the profusion of Nazneen Jehangir's Libellule rare flowers add that perfect flourish. The young owner couple Gauri and Jay Yusuf have made me drop any reserve, cast aside any doubts and accept the fact that I loved their Table — and that this preening newcomer deserved it."