Ellipsis

Critic´s Review

• Food: 4 / 5
• Service: 3.5 / 5
• Decor: 3.5 / 5

-By Rashmi Uday Singh

First of all, you wont be able to spot this new restaurant (they haven't put up a sign board) then you wont be able to figure out it's exact identity. By turns cozy and sexy, laid-back and fleet, Ellipsis is different things at different times to different people, which is exactly what its young owner and chef meant it to be. Though it feels easygoing, it also attempts to preserve the core pleasures of fine dining.

To deliver this mega voltage ambitious experience, the young owner Rohan Talwar got in internationally renowned award winning Thomas Schoos (interiors,) NYC's Death and company,( the bar) and the Canadian chef Kelvin (progressive American dishes which comfort as well as innovate.)

Quite clearly, Ellipsis is a trailblazer. So though Id already eaten here more than half a dozen times I invite trailblazers to join me today. Theatre and TV personality, granma (believe it or not) of six, Sabira along with industrialist husband Chottu Merchant pioneered (in 1980) the stand alone discotheque and rocked Mumbai with their Studio 29. Their close friend (also my ma in law) the feisty Delhi based Mohini Bhullar (leading far from a quiet retired life after her long and successful publishing career, is always delighted to come back to Mumbai) accompanies us over a sparkling Proseco soaked dinner. That this restaurant serves the Italian sparkling wine on tap, by the glass, immediately wins over my guests. Their discerning, well-traveled and refined palates are delighted.

Ambiance

Charming and unusual decor of the eclectic combination of styles, periods and textures. Two distinctly-concepted floors with rustic, yet modern decor, statement chandelier, tiled tabletops, vintage paintings from every style and period over the last 100 years charm.

Food

Great news…I pop in for lunch alone (after many dinners) and find a price sensitive three course set lunch menu (Rs 1200 with sandwich and Rs 1400 with main. Okayish French onion soup, authentic and tasty Jamaican Jerk chicken, well-made creamy crème brulee).

Simply divided into - Garden, Farm and Sea - the market driven menu is printed daily. Many a dish offers a playful take on the traditional and the dishes are meant for sharing.

Three masterpieces : Outstanding meltingly succulent pork belly nestled within steamed buns sparkled with kimchee, apple butter and jalapeño. Love the contrasting textures and flavors of the Beet Salad (with cardamom, coffee,herbs, pickled vegetables and beet meringue) And the superb dessert interpretation of Rocky Road (an adult coffee icecream, a sweet peanut butter one appealing to the child in you, cookie studded chocolate, caramelised marshmallow sauce.) Though my guests prefer the hazelnut lime ganache, sponge cake. Caprese with goat cheese spheres is delightful too.

On the dinner menu, the most expensive dish is the Rib Eye steak at Rs 2500, the average price per dish is Rs 900.

Minus Points

Though a great global experience, unfortunately it was initially served up at global prices too ( especially the cocktails), which accounts for there being fewer diners her. Some of the dishes go far off the mark, (thankfully they've taken the Mac N cheese off the menu). Chicken & waffles, served with foie gras butter is stodgy, flavorless heirloom tomatoes, over buttery gnochi. It's the lunch with it's flatbreads ( low on salt) and sandwiches, Montecristo (interpretation of French toast) which is not on par with the dinner menu.As Sabira rightfully points out, we are not given serving spoons and the dinner is served on small share plates.

My Point

The word ellipsis" signifies three dots at the end of a sentence, which denotes that there is something more to come…and sure enough the youthful energy driving this Modern American dining concept, keeps more coming.

Live performances every Wednesday at their cocktail hour, Sunday brunch (with live performances, Rs 4000 eat and drink unlimited) well-priced set menus.

This hugely ambitious global experience venture with its global prices ( cocktails Rs 800-1200,) has now (thankfully) pruned its prices ( cocktails Rs 500-700).

Some of the dishes are patchy but Ellipsis's chef is ambidextrous, as comfortable using liquid nitrogen as he is in highlighting the natural flavors of the ingredients and serving up comfort.There is a triumph of technical accomplishment and flavors, and now (mercifully,) there is fine-tuning of prices too."