Le Pain Quotidien

Critic´s Review

• Food: 3.5 / 5
• Service: 3.5 / 5
• Decor: 3.5 / 5

-By Rashmi Uday Singh

”luh paN koh-ti-dyaN” - Mumbai's latest bakery cafe chain from Belgium may mean ”Daily Bread” but this 151st restaurant of the group serves much more (and has actually made menu additions for the Indian palate). It's been rocking ever since it opened. Go to this packed, open all day restaurant for breakfast, superlative coffee, hot dishes (the tartines can be patchy), freshly baked breads and outstanding croissants. Swift service, well-priced and happy, cheerful vibes here. A circular, wooden ”chandelier” is suspended into the atrium-like space of the two-floored restaurant having a relaxed, casual, farmhouse feel. The central counter overflows with a variety of freshly baked breads (pity they don't sell it by the slice) and colourful desserts. Bleached wooden tables (including community tables) and chairs, warm beige walls here. The short menu of salads, soups and tartines (read open sandwiches) has a welcome addition of ”hot dishes” and ”dinner specials”. Bypass the tartines (a stringy Asparagus one and lustily spiced but too bready Tandoori Cheese Tartine) and go for the unusual and creative salads (thinly sliced Green Apple and Fennel one and Smoked Salmon with Arugula). It's the unerringly Pan-seared Bekti Fish with a Lemon Butter Sauce that comes out tops. Succulent Basil Chicken, Polenta made delightful with blue cheese, and Sliced Tenderloin with Prune and Thyme Sauce are worth trying too. The disappointments? Thick-skinned Roasted Leek and Lemon Ravioli, doughy Vegetarian Quiche, oversweet Lemon Tart , stodgy Bread Pudding. However, the Apple Crumble more than makes up for this as does the intense flavour of the Espresso Tart and the soft-centred Chocolate Cake.