Jaffer Bhai's Delhi Darbar

Critic´s Review

• Food: 3.5 / 5
• Service: 3.5 / 5
• Decor: 3 / 5

-By Rashmi Uday Singh

My compliments to Jaffer Bhai Mansuri, his lovely daughter Rizwana and son Moin for keeping the Darbar contemporary, yet keeping down the price points. "The Biryani King of Mumbai", trumpets the homepage of Jaffer Bhai's Delhi Darbar. It's a self-professed claim that has garnered staunch support over the years, even though the landmark institution bears the name of the city we love to hate. The original eatery (set up in 1973) has been divided into two air-conditioned ones (Mahim and Marine Lines) that also specialize in takeaway and home delivery. Mutton Ghost, Chicken Kadhai and Tandoori Chicken are the most popular items on the menu here. Sure, the gravies and biryanis here are fantastic, but I simply love their kebabs! Kalmi Kebab, Neza Kebab, Khichda and Tandoor ki Gehu Roti - I can never get enough. Pile on caramelized onions, squeeze the nimbu, sprinkle mint leaves and enjoy the Wheat and Mutton Khichda (Wednesdays and Saturdays only). However, the labyrinthine, high-on-atmosphere but low-on-ambience Grant Road branch is essentially for those looking for a late-night Mughlai meal. Waiters in assorted caps (including berets) bustle between the somewhat upmarket air-conditioned room (mirrored and with plastic table mats) and the fairly comfortable, cheery non-airconditioned one. The Dongri and Mahim branches are more for home delivery and takeaway while the air-conditioned, glassed-in Marine Drive one has a small seating section too. Prices are 10 to 15 per cent cheaper in these and delivery covers most of the city till Juhu.