-By Rashmi Uday Singh
If blingy global brands seduce the well-travelled swish set of Mumbai, can signature-branded restaurants be far behind? New York’s high-octane Ian Kittichai, not content with wowing the Big Apple and Barcelona, now blitzes Mumbai’s taste buds with his contemporary, ritzy interpretation of Thai food in a high-ceilinged, themed lounge restaurant. Rich dark-wood interiors are topped off with a glitzy hand-crafted champagne gold-leafed ceiling created by yet more celebrated international designer names. A poem in giant Thai letters dominates one wall; a busy bar serving signature cocktails greets you as you enter. Dimly lit, with soft loungey music slows down time in here. Just the right mood for their newly introduced Twice Charred Barbecue Spare Ribs and Spicy Basil Prawns. Yum Cha (a selection of fried, baked or steamed dumplings) is another refreshing addition to the menu. Chilean Sea Bass, served with steamed Bok Choy is the restaurant’s speciality. A Set Menu lunch from Mon-Sat (12.30pm to 3pm; Rs. 950 plus taxes) includes entry, salad, curry and rice. Using the finest of ingredients, Chef Kittichai creates masterpieces of flavour and texture, using the unusual Cocoa Powder, Plum Sauce, Liquorice and more. Must try the sublime Sea Bass glazed with Palm Sugar and Yellow Bean Bird Eye Chilli, outstanding King Aubergine and the delicate Tea-smoked Tofu. Refreshing Pomelo with Shiitake and the bold flavours of the succulent Lamb Shank Massaman Curry are must-tries. Ditto for the excellent desserts, especially the addictive Guava Crumble and the flourless Valronha Chocolate Cake. Plenty for veggies, from Snake Beans to Honshimeji Mushrooms. Although their Salad Sampler is supposedly one of their most popular dishes, I feel it is avoidable and lacklustre. However, the Tuna Ceviche is superb and the Green Curry is flavorsome and spicy. The presentation is modern without being fussy. Purists may cringe but Koh takes Modern Thai food to a high level with prices to match!
Review posted within last 6 month
There is no comparison. Koh is perfect and awesome place in the city... I've been coming here since few years.
loved the food and atmosphere. . sublime Sea Bass glazed with Palm Sugar and Yellow Bean Bird Eye Chilli are just too good to have....love the food, ambiance and service....ir is a perfect place to visit with special one and have some yummylicious food.
Review posted more than 6 month ago
The ambience of Koh does not follow the clichéd ‘Asian’ restaurant mode; it’s understated, with clean lines and slight dashes of colours – it looks every inch the fine dining place that it is.
We started with the amuse bouche – a tasty little vegetarian parcel of minced Thai veggies wrapped in pak choi leaf; the Kaprow Sauce dressing came in a ‘dropper’ and was added at the table.
It was accompanied by a ‘shot’ of soup – golden corn and coconut ‘white’ tom kha espresso, which was hot, flavourful and absolutely hit the right spot!
Next, came a papaya salad, dressed with an indifferent Thai vinaigrette and liberally sprinkled with crushed peanuts. This was the only bit of lunch that was a letdown.
Then we had a perfectly poached fillet of Vietnamese sea perch, which was dressed with chilli, lime and cilantro and accompanied by oven roasted broccoli. The fish fillet practically melted in the mouth; the dressing was a tad sour for my taste, though. The broccoli – yummy!
Next up, steamed jasmine rice with green curry; you have a choice of chicken or shrimp. I chose the shrimp & the husband opted for chicken. The curry was delicious, with pieces of aubergine and water chestnuts; the shrimp and chicken were also well-cooked. The portion of rice was surprisingly large and we made quite a hearty meal of it.
Dessert was a “Fru’noffie Wedge” – a delectable treat of salty caramel, dressed with whipped cream and fruits, with a peanut crunch at the bottom. The layered dessert was beautifully textured and was a fitting end to our lunch date!
I’d definitely recommend Koh, and not just during Restaurant Week. Go beyond Pad Thai ;)
Favorite Dishes / Drinks: Tom Kha & Poached Vietnamese Sea Perch
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