Cesky

Critic´s Review

• Food: 3 / 5
• Service: 3 / 5
• Decor: 3 / 5

-By Rashmi Uday Singh

Three points to keep in mind about Cesky, Powai's latest and upscale Modern European restaurant: there is no a la carte here (Fixed Degustation menus only; '7,000+ for a seven course and 3,500 for a three-course menu) and it is only open for dinner. Also every single ingredient used by Masterchef Christian Cilia (of London's La Brasserie) has been imported ("including the salt").

Ambiance
Surprisingly enough, this ambitious restaurant is located just off the noisy bar. This pleasantly appointed, very high-ceilinged space (with very large propeller ceiling fans), enrobed in white and set off with black, was empty when we visited it on a Friday night.My guest Siddhartha Bajaj who works in real estate equity is not only a dish, he’s also formidably charming and one of the most patient men I know. I generally hangabout with him and our common close writer pal SDS, but this time Nina Vasa and I were lucky to monopolise him. The exuberant Nina loves her work, people and life and her cheesecake is legendary.We all noted the very high-end crockery, cutlery and glassware. lighting and a tiny open kitchen where Chef Christian Cilia cooks.

Food
We had no choice but to stick to the Degustation Menu. The meal (made only with ingredients imported from England)started off on a very promising note, with the finest Beluga Caviar and Champagne Sorbet. Intense and delightfully rich and flavorsome white Onion Veloute followed. Perfectly seared foie gras was next.

We were informed that Christian Cilia’s changing menus boast of Cauliflower Panna Cotta with Vanilla Jelly; Fillets of Veal served with Seared Foie Gras; Mushroom Jus New Zealand Lamb with Barley Risotto, and more. Sophisticated and artfully minimalistic plating, international wines to compliment the dishes and swift service too. Gem-like tasty petit fours complete each meal.

Minus Points
When you are paying over Rs 7000 per head per person, the least you expect is a quiet exclusive space.Instead it is almost like an extension of the bar, with just a glassed-off partition.The noise and the thumping piano from there tampers with the exclusivity of the experience.The bland and somewhat-tasteless Smoked Haddock with Salsify Pea Purée made it worse. As did the tiny serving of Beetroot Sorbet with Goat Cheese which came next. A lacklustre Chocolate dessert too. We also requested for a vegetarian three-course option, but since we hadn’t requested in advance, it was a skimpy ( pasta and salad) one.

My Point
With all the global emphasis on freshness and local ingredients, it is a bit out of place that importing of all ingredients ("including salt") should be touted as such a USP. Even so, a more private and secluded restaurant space, a la carte menu, lowering the prices and upping the taste and flavor quotient is needed.