-By Karen Anand
Hyderababdi food usually conjures up images of opulence, richness and age-old traditions. The dcor at Koyla, to start with, comes as a surprise to say the least. Let's just say that a belly dancer would not have been out of place. It is sort of Turkish-cum-Arabian nights with lots of small mirrors and red and pink velvet back rests with slightly uncomfortable divans. On one side of the restaurant, you have a mural of the Golconda Fort and on the other side, a collage of the Nizam's family. As for the food, the kebabs are sensitively prepared, each with a different spice paste, and all tender. However, don't expect generous portions. So, if you are more than two, order at least two platters of each. Kebabs are many - Kalimiri Chooza, Tandoori Essas, Malai Kebab, Pathar ka Ghosh, Boti Kebab, Lagan ka Sheek. Kothmiri ka Murgh is excellent, succulent and flavourful. However, the Hyderabadi Raan is a disappointment - rubbery and smothered with masala. The Bheja Masala, a goat brain gravy preparation, goes well with Reshmi Paratha. The overall detailing is outstanding and in some cases outdoes the food. You are also presented with a sweet Paan on the way out.
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