Punjabee Rasoi

Critic´s Review

• Food: 4 / 5
• Service: 3 / 5
• Decor: 2 / 5

-By Salmoli Mukerji

If you ask me for one source of good Indian style food in the city - amongst thousands of favourites - I would pick up a nondescript, non-famous, little joint, a new discovery of sorts in the southern fringes. My acquaintance to the place has been only for a few months, but it keeps drawing me back because it surpasses expectations and offers the combination of perfect richness of taste and courteous hospitality.

DECOR: 2

They are yet to concentrate on the decor. Since the opening, the owner and the kitchen team of 15, have been concentrating only on perfecting the cuisine. And aren't we glad! The ground floor of an incomplete house, in the back of beyond, has whitewashed walls, airconditioned comfort, plastic dhaba-style portable seating for 30. What raises our hope is the well-equipped kitchen as big as the restaurant itself.

FOOD: 4

The lead chefs Mohammad Shabir and Mahinder Singh, with varied culinary experiences including star kitchens, are justly known for their stint at A C Market's basement vegetarian restaurant in the 80's - Vineet. We start with my-friend recommended - Adrak ke Panje (Rs.180/-), succulent pieces of goat ribs, marinated and tempered with the right mix of khada (whole) and kuta (grounded, dry) spices, well done in the tandoor. Delicious! Next, we order the owner recommended Murg Lasuni kebab (Rs.170/-, full) - tender legs of chicken in secret marination, rare done on the tandoor, Fish Tikka (Rs.190)- not different from the off- shelf tikka masala, but the quality of fish surpassed previous experiences. We made another trip to taste their weekend specials of Murg Khusnawa kebab (Rs.170/-) and Murg Onion Kebab (Rs.170/-) - both stuffed chicken breasts, former with creamy paste of nuts and raisins draped in a saffron marination and the later with crushed onions in pale yellow yoghurt marination, giving the distinctive flavours. Definitely, diverse.

PLUS and MINUS:

For the vegetarians, there are dozens of items on the menu, but what's an Indian restaurant without its dal? The silken, textured black dal, Dal Makhani (Rs.90), cooked overnight, in authentic style with streaks of butter is the signature of this restaurant! Even Dal Tadka (Rs.70/) - an ordinary mixed dal gets the star treatment of intensely garlicky tempering, making it to the must have list. Goes well with the kadak Tandoori atta rotis (Rs.12/-) and Kabuli Naan (Rs.45/-) - soft inside, topped with sprinkling of nuts and carmalised sugar. The Palak Corn (Rs.105/-) -baby spinach paste with kernels of golden corn, is as compelling. However, the cliched Biryanis and Eggs in the ominous orangey brown Curries in the menu could easily be dropped. Would rather pay attention to perfecting most obscure dishes in the menu like Mutton Keema Masala (Rs.145/-). Again, no desserts.